Corton

I've been meaning to get to Corton ever since I heard that chef Paul Liebrandt had a new home. Tonight, I celebrated my umpteenth birthday with some relatives, and this lovely cream-and-gold restaurant was the venue. Liebrandt's dishes are thrilling landscapes that inspire the diner to explore every nook and cranny. Even a vegetable plate ("From The Garden") is full of delicious surprises! But more on that in a bit.

While we sipped glasses of 2006 Chavy-Martin Puligny-Montrachet, my relatives mentioned that they had been chatting with owner Drew Nieporent - apparently, he always wanted to be in the restaurant business, and even watched the Galloping Gourmet as a child. (He's a friendly presence at his latest restaurant.)

We munched on gougeres and fluffy green olive breads, and smeared green-flecked seaweed butter on mini-baguettes. Then, the server arrived to answer questions (what is kalamansi? an Indian fruit resembling a kumquat. what about cobia? a meaty, firm, sharklike fish). We decided to order the $75 three-course meal, opposed to the $120 tasting menu.

Our amuse-bouche was a chilled oyster nestled in gelee, anointed with nutmeg oil and sprinkled with grains of buckwheat (my relatives aren't shellfish fans, so I was the lucky recipient of three of them). I ended up paying them back in king crab tempura; my velvety kuri squash soup featured two pieces of it, as well as a non-fried chunk of sweet crabmeat sprinkled with gold leaf. Other dishes were a beautiful circle of Nantucket Bay scallops, baby greens and raw radishes with an orange sea urchin sauce at the center, and the marvelous "From The Garden." (I don't think I've ever been so excited by a vegetable plate.) Various tiny root vegetables, potatoes, caramelized onions, greens, tapenades, dried vegetable powders, and the odd fruit were arranged in such a way that the tastes changed depending on where your fork landed - here was a patch of sweetness, or a tangy zing, or a paper-thin crispness.

Then it was time for the main courses. Succulent Label Rouge chicken was accompanied by a polenta cake topped with a slice of black truffle, artichokes Barigoule, and a breaded chicken meatball with a compote of diced autumn fruits. Golden amadai, a bream-like fish, was the centerpiece for a ring of sweet onions and melt-in-your-mouth ricotta-parmesan gnudi. Razor clam chowder, added at the last minute, added even more richness. Portions were not overpowering, however.

A coconut sorbet in a blood orange foam, which hid pearls of black tapioca, announced the dessert course. The sweets were excellent, and the artisanal cheese plate was a selection of perfection! It showcased the creamy, sharp, sweet and pungent flavors of Stilton, Langa La Tur from the Piedmont region, Comte, an award-winning Pleasant Ridge Gruyere from Wisconsin, and a wonderful goat cheese. Salted focaccia and cranberry toasts came with the plate. I was momentarily distracted from my gooey-centered, warm chocolate fondant cake with its scoop of ice milk in a sea of cocoa nibs, and a caramel apple dessert with walnuts.

Fortunately, there were two more opportunities to appreciate the chocolate creations of pastry chef Robert Truitt. Milk chocolate/ginger, white chocolate/blackberry and dark chocolate/lime discs soon arrived, and then the server brought by actual drawers full of goodies. One drawer held chocolate towers filled with curried peanut butter, another contained tiny lemon, caramel and espresso macarons, and yet another held a collection of spiced fig/red wine and jasmine-grapefruit chocolates, palets d'or, and salted butter caramels. If only I'd been allowed to take home a box!

Corton: 239 West Broadway, (212) 219-2777.

Bar Breton

The new Bar Breton has a winning formula for these troubled times: galettes (buckwheat crepes) in the $10-$15 range and lots of alcohol! Small plates run about $7, and as I found out, at least one of them is hearty enough for a meal. (There are also a few mains around $20.)

In more of an eating than a drinking mood, I tried to go in on Tuesday, but was told that dinner wasn't served until 5 p.m., although the bar is open all day. (I had a similar experience when Bar Milano first opened; not everyone goes the Bar Stuzzichini route of all-day dining. Oh well!) I'm quite determined when I have to be, so I returned yesterday at 5 p.m. sharp. Chef Cyril Renaud was explaining the origin of the multi-colored glasses that hung from the lighting fixture to some inquisitive diners (journalists?). I tried to eavesdrop, but was soon led to a little booth.

Several galettes looked enticing - according to the menu, the buckwheat flour used to make them is organic and gluten-free. I was going to order the Black Forest ham with Gruyere and egg, but then opted for the wild smoked salmon galette. Instead of being spread out over a plate, it was served like sushi. Rolled-up sections of chocolate-brown crepe were stuffed with a mild horseradish-onion cream and assembled in a neat row upon a stone block. Each piece was topped with a slice of smoked salmon and some red onion.

I wolfed it down in about a minute, realizing that I was going to have to order something else! My eye traveled between the "niac" (small plate) section and the desserts. Profiteroles? Pot de creme with chicory? Nutella crepe? Sardines? Or pate? I settled on the salt-baked potato with oxtail and grey sea salt ($7). This was quite a hearty dish, even more so than the galette. A peeled potato had its insides scooped out, replaced with a rich, delicious oxtail stew. Now I was too full for dessert.

But I'm almost afraid to go back, because I've a feeling I'll be a goner once I try the Nutella dessert crepe.

Bar Breton: 254 Fifth Ave., (212) 213-4999.

Katsuno Restaurant

If you're a regular at Midtown's Restaurant Seo, you might be wondering where Chef Katsuyuki Seo is. It turns out that his fans out in Forest Hills are borrowing him for a little while. Seo, who just opened Katsuno in the former Ran space on Metropolitan Avenue, is arranging lovely plates at the sushi bar while his kitchen turns out specialties like grilled miso-marinated beef, steamed Asari clams, eel with cucumber vinaigrette, and those noodles everyone has come to love at Seo's original restaurant.

There are eight tables in the front of Katsuno (seven of which were full tonight), and two semi-private tables in back. Tonight, people around me were indulging in oshitashi, sea urchin sashimi, and chawan mushi. To start, I ordered a bowl of miso soup (the menu features both red and white versions) with seaweed, scallions and nice big chunks of tofu. My next course was three half-moons of sweet stewed pumpkin in a light dashi. The hearty orange vegetable was sprinkled with bits of yuzu zest.

My main course was a generous portion of grilled miso-marinated cod, its skin lightly charred. A dab of sweet white miso sauce complemented the rich fish, which was served with a big bowl of rice. (Next to me, a couple consumed a plate of rare sliced beef with daikon and citrus ponzu sauce.) Although I was tempted by the sushi menu ("Please ask for today's imported fresh fish from Japan," it said), I had no more room... maybe I'll go back tomorrow.

If you want to try out Katsuno for yourself, you might want to visit on Saturday, Dec. 20 from 5-7 p.m., when the restaurant is throwing a "grand opening party." You'll be able to eat all you want for $25! The menu will include cold soba, grilled chicken in lemon sauce, shrimp tempura salad, and sushi, among other dishes. Bring your own wine and beer - Katsuno expects to receive its liquor license in the next few months.

Katsuno Restaurant: 103-01 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills, (718) 575-4033.

Holidays 2008

We're all trying to "tighten our belts" this season. But some of us are also planning on loosening our (literal) belts a few notches! So if you and your friends are still indulging your palates, here are some holiday gift recommendations:

• Those who give home-baked gifts should peruse this extensive online cookie encyclopedia; Gourmet Magazine has made 50 years of Christmas cookie recipes available.

• If you have no time to bake, let Chuck "The Baker" Pierkarski bake for you! Every batch of his brownies helps benefit God's Love We Deliver.
  

• Your friend who wants to learn to cook will love a copy of Martha Stewart's Cooking School: Lessons and Recipes for the Home Cook.

• If you want to splurge on that special someone, Petrossian offers a mouthwatering brunch basket filled with caviar, smoked salmon, duck breast prosciutto, blini; toasts, creme fraiche, honey, cinnamon raisin bread, cranberry ginger cake, chestnut jam, coffee and tea. But even Petrossian is getting into the economizing act; there are several delicious gifts for $100 and under.

• Send a Murray's Cheese Greenwich Village Supper basket to a friend (and then slyly ask to be invited for dinner). (Alternatively, send over a Zabar's Deli Sampler.)
  

• Online retailer Norm Thompson offers adorable, inexpensive holiday sweets.

• Is your friend a restaurant-goer? Then s/he'll appreciate a gift certificate to Hill Country (buy a $25 gift certificate for only $10 at restaurant.com!) or the always-rewarding Picholine, which is now offering a special "menu d'economie."
  

If I think of anything else, I'll post it! Happy holidays.